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Spitfire76 last won the day on January 25

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About Spitfire76

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  1. From what I've seen from other posts in the forum this seems to be the company to get a decent professional gimbal from - https://gremsy.com I need to do some more research on how well these gimbals interface to the Pixhawk 2.1 and Arducopter firmware.
  2. So far I've resisted buying off the shelf UAVs in preference to building my own recreational rigs but thought what would it cost to build a truly professional multi rotor type UAV for aerial photography. I started to put together some thoughts on the bill of materials and would welcome any feedback or suggestions. Frame. I would likely go with a hex carbon fiber frame. A quad is not redundant as if one motor or ESC fails it will fall out of the sky and it always surprises me that even the DJI Inspire and M200 are quads. With the right flight controller the Hex can continue to fly on 5 motors. Flight Controller. Having had some good experience with the APM and Pixhawk hardware running arducoptor firmware I am inclined to choose the Pixhawk 2.1 for the flight controller. The "Cube" has built in redundancy as it incorporates multiple sensors, can have 2 power sources and supports dual GPS/compasses. http://www.proficnc.com Motors/Props and ESCs. http://store-en.tmotor.com seem to be the “Rolls-Royce” of motors for UAVS and they also sell ESCs and carbon props so this would be my first place to look. They publish very details specifications which should make it easier to work out what combination of motor/ESC and prop to select based on the total take off weight of the rig. Camera/Gimbal. This one I’ll need some help with as I am not so familiar with some of the higher end cameras. All I know, at this early stage, is that its not a GoPro. The camera/gimbal would need to provide control via the Pixhawk. geo tagging of photos. live video feed to ground station. I really like the modular approach that these guys have designed in their latest surveying cameras. https://www.mapir.camera/pages/kernel-cameras A 4K version of one of these cameras to take regular video and high res photos would be great but I think they are just aimed at surveying for the moment.
  3. @DivenParker Looks like you recently reposted you original issue from back in April - are you still having issues with it ?
  4. Is the GPS connected to the FS?. Using this forum to troubleshoot this is not very efficient so let me know if you want to have a Skype call.
  5. I thought that this was a great podcast on how to get involved in using UAVs for search and rescue. http://droneradioshow.com/drones-search-rescue-jay-manley-dakota-skyhook/
  6. Are you able to change flight modes ?. Reason for asking is that it looks like you need to be able to do that in order to get to compass collaboration and I believe you were having trouble to get out of manual mode earlier on.
  7. Are you checking this indoors?. If so I would try it out doors as I am wondering if the 2 flashes of the red LED really means that its not picking up enough GPS satellites.
  8. I see that the FC's PMU can be powered by a 2S to 6S battery and you must be using a 4S, correct ?. I also see that the PMU provides both 5v and 12v outputs. Can you make sure that the +5 v is being used to power the FC by measuring the voltage. Are you using the 12v out to power anything ?.
  9. Its a new set of maps that the FAA is providing for UAS pilots to help with airspace authorization particularly around airports. Click on "The maps" link in the first paragraph. https://www.faa.gov/uas/request_waiver/uas_facility_maps/ The sectional map is not so clear as that section of D airspace borders B airspace on 2 sides. The [25] of course means a D airspace ceiling of 2500 ft.
  10. According to the UAS Facility map that area is class D from 0 to 2500 ft
  11. Seems like you are making progress. Which LED is blinking?. https://hobbyking.com/media/file/531826560X339719X34.pdf
  12. @Q2THECORE the PMU should just provide +5v to the FC which in turn also powers the receiver but the ESCs and TS5823 should get their power directly from the battery. Is that the case ?
  13. @Q2THECORE that's too bad about the lack of documentation but seems to be common with a lot of ESCs. I now use HobbyWing 40A ESCs on my Hex as they are easy to setup and the documentation is good. http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=398&filter_attr=6481.6480 I purchased 6 of them from HobbyKing.com for about $12 each. They don't make a 30A so I went with the higher version of 40A. But back to your HobbyPower ESCs, I can't seem to find much information on those either. All I can say is that the common way to enter programming mode on an ESC is similar to calibration. Typically to calibrate an ESC you have it connected to the motor and to the receiver throttle channel. You power on the transmitter and move the throttle stick to its highest position. You then connect the battery and the ESC will make the motor emit a tone. Within a few seconds of the tone you move the throttle to its lowest position. This is telling the ESC the PWM range that it should use. If you wait a bit longer before moving the throttle to its lowest position you may hear a different number of tones and waiting a bit longer another number of tones. Each one is to set a different parameter to program but without knowing what they are is going to be impossible to configure. On another note I looked at a number of ESCs programing parameters and found ones that reverse the direction of the motor but not the PWM range and thinking about this again I don't think that would be a very useful parameter to have. Low throttle should be about 1000 and high throttle about 2000 and the higher the PWM the faster the ESC should turn the motor.
  14. @Q2THECORE some ESCs allow you to change their characteristics and it sounds like those have a "reverse" parameter. Programming is easiest done via a program card but usually can also be performed from the transmitter. Did those ESCs come with any documentation ?. As the FC has its own power module you should not need to have the ESCs provide the +5v and so to avoid any power conflicts remove the middle red wire from each ESC lead and place a pieced of insulating tape over it.
  15. That looks like a motor mount rather than a prop adapter. They are often used to mount motors in fixed wing aircraft but no always needed for multi rotors as the motor mounts directly to the arms.