Q2THECORE

Members
  • Content count

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Q2THECORE

  • Rank
    Member
  1. I can switch flight modes, but still get the error flash in manual mode. Shouldn't need gps for that mode?
  2. Tried outdoors and at an open school playground. Also made sure firmware was up to date. Still 2 red flashes even on manual mode.
  3. So now I am getting the 2 red flashes (calibrate compass). I can get into the calibration mode and have done the dance repeatedly. No green light horizontally or vertically. Ready to part this out! $#@%!
  4. Ok, I connected a 3s 11.1v to it and everything fell within the "Recommend Settings." The FS is still blinking, so it looks like an issue with my futaba setup. I may try hooking up a different tx rx system that is less complicated than the futaba.
  5. The 12v from the pmu is powering the osd and gimbal. I don't really have a way to check the 5v voltage. The connector is proprietary
  6. The main LED. Interesting, but my voltage in the assistant software shows at 12.56. The battery shows 16.6v with a tester. For some reason, the FC is still not getting enough juice. The FS issue could be low voltage protection.
  7. That was it! The escs needed more power and the drain was messing with the fpv. In an unrelated issue, I can't get the FS from blinking and it only flies in manual mode. Could be a controller setup issue. Now I know why ppl buy out of the box uavs.
  8. OK. I recalibrated the ESCs, and they responded well, individually, with apparently plenty of RPM and power to spare. When I hook everything up again to the FC, it still does the cutting out thing. Also, the FPV goes out when I try to accelerate, which is odd, and probably pointing back to a power issue? Everything is run through the PMU supplied with the FC, so I'm a bit confused as to why it would have power issues. The FPV TX is a brand new TS5823
  9. Yes, the ESCs have documentation, so to speak. All broken and poorly translated from Chinese. Best I can tell, they instruct you how to calibrate. Pretty superficial. I would be afraid to try to read anything these guys put out that would be more in depth. How does one change the reverse parameter using the transmitter? I "cut the red wire" for the esc leads. Thanks again for the help.
  10. Spitfire, Thanks for the advice. I was in the process of calibrating the ESCs one at a time, and found out that the ones that were cutting out are reversed from the others, that is, the throttle up=throttle down for those. They are Hobbypower 30A with Simonk. Also, I read where you are not to have the red lead from the ESCs plugged in with this FC, since they are already getting power from the PMU leads and have build in BEC? They don't give the same tone when I unplug the red lead, so I'm a bit skeptical about that. But then, with obvious power issues...Anyway, how do I change the throttle issue with the ESCs that appear to be backward? Reversing the throttle on the Futaba will only reverse it for all, still having some going the opposite direction, correct? I feel like I'm getting there. Wherever there is. Thanks!
  11. Hi all, I'm fairly new to the hobby, so I figured I'd throw together a hexacopter! I have a Tarot FY680 frame with a Tarot ZYX-M FC, OSD, 3D Gimbal, and Futaba T8FGS controller (SBus). Everything is new except the Futaba. All appears well, and the motors arm and idle. When I throttle up, 2 or 3 motors shut down, and the FPV goes wonky. The remaining motors that are running don't go much past idle speed. The LED is on solid green. I don't know if it's related, but I can't seem to get the thing out of FS mode! FS is flashing on the FPV/OSD Screen. I tried recalibrating the controller multiple times, and re-mapped it just in case. Using a Brand New Floureon 4s 14.8v 5500MAH battery also. Anyone experience this before? Of course, Tarot is no help. I'm guessing it's a power issue, but everything is running through the new PMU I got with the FC. Frustrating hobby. About to sell it for parts and invest in an Inspire. I'm starting to regret not sticking with Naza M V2, which I had on a previous S800 knockoff I built and worked like a champ. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.