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Found 11 results

  1. Drizzel

    First racing drone - Need help! :)

    Hi guys,I am building my first racing drone. I thought it would be easy as it's not the first radio controlled thing I've built (electric longboard) but apparently a drone is a whole different story I finished the frame as far as I could without obstructing the electronics, but I simply don't know how to connect everything together. Although I already checked with multiple Tutorials and other resources I came to no definite conclusion, so here I am Here's 2 images of all the parts I have, do. you know how to put them together? Image 1: Image 2: It may be that the pictures contain some unnecessary parts, they're simply leftoversThank you,Drizzel
  2. UAVs or as many know and call them, “drones”, have become quite popular in the last couple of years and it seems that, nowadays, everyone has them. This is mostly because the market is over flooded with a plethora of cheap models, and you can buy a drone to have fun with in the back yard for less than $20. Of course, if you want a more sophisticated model that goes over 60mph, or has a 4K camera and basically, does the flying on its own, you will have to cash out from $400 and up. Is there a solution that offers all those great features, but for less money? Yes, there is and it’s called a DIY drone kit. Such a kit gives you a chance to own a great drone model that you can customize to your liking and learn about the drone technology, electronics, physics, aerodynamics, and much more as your project advances. Depending on which kit you choose, you can just order a frame and buy the rest of the parts separately, or you can choose a kit that includes almost all the parts and usually, you just need to buy a battery and a transmitter. Whichever type of a kit you choose, you first need to know how to choose the right one for you. How To Pick the Right DIY Drone Kit If you think that picking a DIY drone kit is easy peasy, you are way off course. You can’t just pick any kit and hope that the final product will be capable of doing what you intended it to. First, you need to decide what are you going to use the drone for. There are two basic types you can choose from: Freestyle drones (also known as racing drones) Aerial photography drones Racing Drones If you choose to go down the Racing path, you need to find a kit that includes a small, light, and durable racing frame, high KV value motors (KV stands for Rounds per Volt), and a Flight Controller that is suitable for that kind of flying. Why do we say a small racing frame that is durable and light? Well, a racing drone needs to be as light and durable as possible because you will crash it a lot, believe us. As for the motors, well, the higher the rounds per volt, the faster it will go and the faster you will be able to change the direction and perform breathtaking aerial stunts like flips, barrel rolls, loops, and so on. Our advice is to opt for motors that have 2300KV or a higher value. When it comes to a flight controller, you won’t actually need one that has all the fancy sensors that keep your drone leveled all the time, the GPS position assistance systems, the high precision barometer for keeping the altitude on its own, and the rest of the high-tech gizmos. You will want a package that gives you the ability to fly in the Acro mode (meaning you get to do all the flying without any assistance) and have the raw power. If you want to have the real drone racing feeling, then your kit also needs to support the onboard FPV (First Person View) equipment and that includes an FPV camera and an RF signal transmitter. (Racing drones usually have carbon fiber bodies and short propellors) Aerial Photography Drones If aerial filming and photography is your choice, then the drone kit you choose needs to be much more sophisticated than a racing drone kit. For starters, you will need a much bigger frame. Also, unlike for racing, where people use exclusively frames for 4 motors (quadcopters), when it comes to aerial filming, the more motors the better. You can choose a Hexacopter frame or even an Octocopter frame. As for motors, this time it’s reversed, the lower the KV value of a motor is, the more stable your drone will be and more filming equipment (camera and gimbal) it will be capable of lifting safely in the air. We suggest going from 900KV or lower. You also need bigger props. For example, if you choose 900KV motor, you should opt for a 10-inch prop. The lower the KV goes, the bigger props you will need if you want efficiency. When it comes to Flight Controllers, for this type of a drone, you will need as much assistance systems as possible. You want your drone to be stable and self-reliant as possible so that you can focus on filming and not so much on flying. If you want ease of setup and to be airborne as soon as possible, we suggest something like the DJI Naza series. If you want to program all the features yourself, you can choose something like the Pixhawk or APM flight controllers. But be warned, if you are not that familiar with programming and coding matter, we suggest going for the Naza series (M Lite or M V2). Important to know: Before choosing any type of DIY drone kit, make sure you know how to actually control a drone. Otherwise, you might get it all prepared for a flight, and crash it only after a few meters if something unexpected happens. Therefore, we suggest that you first buy a small, cheap drone to hone your piloting skills, and only then opt for a more serious drone kit that will get you deep into this hobby. If you want to read more about drone flying tips, we suggest checking out this How to Fly a Drone article. (Aerial photography drones have wider bodies and longer propellors to stabilize their cameras) How to Use a Drone Kit Using a drone kit is pretty much like building a drone from scratch, only, in this case, you don’t have to build the frame from scratch, as you get the frame in parts and you only have to follow the instructions to assemble it with bolts. As for the rest of the parts, depending on what is included in your kit, the procedure is the same as with other DIY UAV projects. After assembling the frame, you need to add ESC’s and motors, connect them properly (check the ESC’s and motor rotation). To connect the motors and ESC’s, we suggest using bullet connectors and heat shrink tubing for isolation. Then, you have to solder the ESCs to the power distribution board, (but most frames today come with an integrated power distribution board so you will probably just have to solder the ESC wires to marked spots on the frame). After that, you need to place your flight controller, but you need to be careful where you place it on the frame because if it’s not directly in the center, your controller might have glitches that can cause your bird to crash or even worse, simply fly away. Also, you need to find the perfect spot for your RC receiver (and the FPV transmitter if you decide to fly in FPV), as far as possible from the GPS module and the flight controller, to avoid interference. The same goes for the GPS module, you need to find the center position for it, but don’t worry, with the help of Mr. Know-it-all (YouTube) you will get everything done quite easy because there are tons of tutorials there. However, if you want an in-depth tutorial on building your drone, we suggest that you check out our DIY Drone: How to Build Your First Quadcopter – Part one and Part two articles for every bit of information you will need for such a project. Wrapping It Up Now that you know how to pick the right DIY drone kit for your needs, and you are equipped with all the needed knowledge, the only step you have to do is to pick a kit. Happy building and don’t forget to let us know which kit you chose and how it went!
  3. Hello, I am new to the drone world and would love to build my own for some aerial photography. I have experience with flying as I own a smaller quad but I am looking for something bigger and a little project for the winter. I am trying to figure out how I could (if at all possible) have a single transmitter for the quadcopter and the gimbal. I am leaning towards buying an S500 kit or F450 kit and I'm not sure which yet. Any guidance is much appreciated! Thank you! Robert
  4. DivenParker

    Some tips of diy a fast drone

    Here, I share my experience about how to diy a fast drone. In the past, I used QAV 250 frame equip with 1806 motors and 3S Lipo battery can fly very fast; and now I use 2205/2305 motor, come with small and light frame, DALRC6045 propeller, the speed get 185km/h. It is very important to choos your drone parts, these are my experience of how to choose drone parts? Motor: I have used many different motors, and these are some of I used. 2205 motors: equip with dalrc5045 3 propeller, their thrust is about 1200g(motor’s weight is about 30g, 4 motor is 120g) 2206 motors: I have used it, the weight is too heavy, hard to turn the corner, and the speed is not increased significantly; 2305 motors: this is my new test motors, and the thrust is very good, they’re super smooth and have a good power! For choosing drone motors, I think T-motor is better than others, most racing pilots are choosing their motor. Frame: I have three requirements for select the frame: Light weight; Small wind resistance; Strong and solid; In the past, I sued dalrc220 frame because it is strong and solid, and needn’t consider the weight, now I like the new frame xr220, because it is light, strong solid and small wind resistance. If you don't know frame or how to choose frame, you can read this guide: Quadcopter Frame Sizes Guide ESC: I think the most ESCs have no difference, the program are similar, you just need consider the price. I’m using the 30SA ESCs, in order to match my 2305 2450KV motors. Battery: To flight fast, a good lipo battery is very important; low C rate can’t discharge high current, if you want to flight fast, you need at least 60C or more lipo battery. How to choose high discharge rate lipo battery? I recommend you can choose this Tattu drone lipo battery, best power delivery, autonomy, reliability, long life and less sag than any other lipos, and most FPV pilots are using their battery. I have built many FPV quadcopter, and this is one of my FPV quadcopter’s build parts; Frame: XR 220; Motor: T-MOTOR 2305 motor Propeller: dalrc 5045 3 blade propeller; ESC: BLHeli_S 30 AMP ESC; Camera: Hsh1177; Lipo Battery: 1300mAh 4S 75C Lipo battery; Flight Control: F3. What do you think about these? Do you have any other tips to add?
  5. Erle

    PXFmini presentation

    Hello everyone! We are Erle Robotics, a young robotics company, and we want to show you the autopilot shield we´ve developed for the Raspberry Pi family. It is called the PXFmini and it is an open autopilot daughter-board for the Raspberry Pi Zero / W. Here you've some pictures: This board allows you to create a ready-to-fly autopilot with support for Dronecode’s APM flight stack. This little board weighs only 15 grams and embeds all the power electronics necessary to comply with most of the existing components for drones through its I2C and UART port. It has 8PWM servo output channels and a PPMSUM input. PXFmini includes: 3 axes gravity sensor 3 axes gyroscope 3 axes digital compass pressure sensor temperature sensor ADC for battery sensing In order to improve the user's experience we work side by side with amazing open source communities to provide support for the de facto standard platforms for drones: the popular APM and PX4 autopilots. The shield has been designed specially for the Raspberry Pi Zero / W but it is also pin-to-pin compatible with the following boards: - Raspberry Pi - Raspberry Pi 2 - Raspberry Pi 3 - Raspberry Pi Zero / W If you want to know more visit us at erlerobotics.com! We have done some interesting projects with this little but powerful board. As an example, a $200 Smart Drone With the Pi Zero: Pi Zero Drone video We will be posting the previous one and more projects soon! Hope you like it!!
  6. Hi All,I am looking to get an affordable long range video setup equivalent to the DJI Phantom 3/4 or better.I recently got a Cheerson CX-20 opensource. Which includes a mount for a GoPro.The is a cheap knock off of a Phantom, so the camera and transmitter would need to be of equivalent size/weight.My main goal is learning Arial Video and Photography.So this is a training platform to see what I can do, and decide if I need to save a few grand for a DJI, or end up finding out I can get buy just fine with a DIY setup.Camera Pre-Reqs:Should record 1080p minimum to a local SD card.Should be able to use a 128GB SD card (256 would be nice)It doesn't require a separate battery, the drone has 5v and 12v hookups.But I also read it is better to use a cam with a separate battery to avoid line noise.I would like the widest FOV I can get without getting any fish-eye effect.Transmitter:Would like to get 1 to 2 km of clear video like DJI. But my the CX-20 only has a 300 meter range. So at least this for a start.The drone's transmitter is 2.4G, so does that mean video should be 5.8G?Receiver:Any basic 5" LCD would be fine.Should it be a diversity receiver? (is that even correct? Something with two receiving antennas?)Like patch and cloverleaf? Or patch and regular?Does not need to display 1080p, though that would be nice.But should be clean enough that it can be used for very basic FPV (mainly lining up shots).I see after market action cams for sale on the cheap all the time.Like the SOOCOO C10S.Are these even viable? Can you hook a transmitter to them?Can you hook a transmitter to a GoPro?It doesn't have to be a GoPro or even an action cam for that matter.It could be an eachine mini as long as it meets the pre-reqs above.As for cost I am looking to stay around $100 to $200 if possible.But if that is not even viable, can you please let me know what I should expect to pay? I can get a Phantom 3 Standard for less than $500, so I would think a comparable aftermarket system should be less than half that? Or is DJI's propitiatory system just so ahead of the game, that getting a 3 Standard is really the cheapest option? I am very hands on with electrical and assembly, and built my own FPV goggles for less than $50 worth of supplies using the screen that came with one of my drones. So I am not afraid to get my hands dirty.Any other pointers or tips?Any links to some good tutorials or guides online?Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.Thanks,Chris
  7. These guys are developing an advanced flight controller for developers. It looks interesting but I'll need to look into a bit further to see if its worth backing. https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/flytpod-advanced-flight-computer-drone#/
  8. Spitfire76

    Open Architecture Camera platform

    I recently came across a small company that is in the process of developing an open architecture camera platform for the maker community and although its not specifically designed for UAVs could be an interesting platform to experiment with. http://www.sub2r.com/
  9. Just got an email from them about the camera and thought you all might enjoy this and possibly find it useful!
  10. Has anyone on this forum built a 3DR DIY Quadcopter before ? Did you stick to the standard components or did you swap things about ? The assembly from what I have seen looks easy. The electronics again looks easy if standard parts are used. Using non standard parts is not a real headache as long as you can adapt to the changes, again from what I could see. I am toying with an idea, if ever I am in the position to, that has been rumbling in my head. Like most things, with me, flying off at tangents is really common. Anyway question asked and awaiting any nice clean wholesome comments, thanks
  11. I am currently trying to change the flight mode while flying my copter but cannot do it properly. Using mission planner's actions tab I can change the flight mode while the copter is disarmed on the ground without issue. Once I arm the drone it no longer responds to mode changes. This appears to be true for any mode change including RTL and AUTO. The flight computer is the pixhawk with standard firmware loaded onto it. I am using a 3dr DIY quad copter kit and a frsy receiver bound to an iris+ controller. I am unsure where the problem lies and am starting to think it may have to do with the configuration on my handheld controller. If anybody has any insight or recommendations as to where to look please let me know and thanks in advance!