Q2THECORE

Tarot FY680 new build acting up

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Hi all,

  I'm fairly new to the hobby, so I figured I'd throw together a hexacopter!  I have a Tarot FY680 frame with a Tarot ZYX-M FC, OSD, 3D Gimbal, and Futaba T8FGS controller (SBus).  Everything is new except the Futaba.  All appears well, and the motors arm and idle.  When I throttle up, 2 or 3 motors shut down, and the FPV goes wonky.  The remaining motors that are running don't go much past idle speed.  The LED is on solid green.  I don't know if it's related, but I can't seem to get the thing out of FS mode!  FS is flashing on the FPV/OSD Screen.  I tried recalibrating the controller multiple times, and re-mapped it just in case.  Using a Brand New Floureon 4s 14.8v 5500MAH battery also.  Anyone experience this before?  Of course, Tarot is no help.  I'm guessing it's a power issue, but everything is running through the new PMU I got with the FC.  Frustrating hobby.  About to sell it for parts and invest in an Inspire.  I'm starting to regret not sticking with Naza M V2, which I had on a previous S800 knockoff I built and worked like a champ.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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On 6/7/2017 at 10:16 PM, Q2THECORE said:

Hi all,

  I'm fairly new to the hobby, so I figured I'd throw together a hexacopter!  I have a Tarot FY680 frame with a Tarot ZYX-M FC, OSD, 3D Gimbal, and Futaba T8FGS controller (SBus).  Everything is new except the Futaba.  All appears well, and the motors arm and idle.  When I throttle up, 2 or 3 motors shut down, and the FPV goes wonky.  The remaining motors that are running don't go much past idle speed.  The LED is on solid green.  I don't know if it's related, but I can't seem to get the thing out of FS mode!  FS is flashing on the FPV/OSD Screen.  I tried recalibrating the controller multiple times, and re-mapped it just in case.  Using a Brand New Floureon 4s 14.8v 5500MAH battery also.  Anyone experience this before?  Of course, Tarot is no help.  I'm guessing it's a power issue, but everything is running through the new PMU I got with the FC.  Frustrating hobby.  About to sell it for parts and invest in an Inspire.  I'm starting to regret not sticking with Naza M V2, which I had on a previous S800 knockoff I built and worked like a champ.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I am not familiar with that flight controller that you are using. I am using the open source ardupilot.org software running on the Pixhawk hardware myself but can try to help. It does sound like a power issue but you have eliminated that by using a new battery. What make and model of ESCs are you using? Did you calibrate each ESC directly from the receiver throttle channel ? Once calibrated you can take the throttle up to check power is getting to the motor without the need of the FC.

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Spitfire, Thanks for the advice.  I was in the process of calibrating the ESCs one at a time, and found out that the ones that were cutting out are reversed from the others, that is, the throttle up=throttle down for those.  They are Hobbypower 30A with Simonk.  Also, I read where you are not to have the red lead from the ESCs plugged in with this FC, since they are already getting power from the PMU leads and have build in BEC?  They don't give the same tone when I unplug the red lead, so I'm a bit skeptical about that.  But then, with obvious power issues...Anyway, how do I change the throttle issue with the ESCs that appear to be backward?  Reversing the throttle on the Futaba will only reverse it for all, still having some going the opposite direction, correct?  I feel like I'm getting there.  Wherever there is.  Thanks!

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@Q2THECORE some ESCs allow you to change their characteristics and it sounds like those have a "reverse" parameter. Programming is easiest done via a program card but usually can also be performed from the transmitter. Did those ESCs come with any documentation ?. As the FC has its own power module you should not need to have the ESCs provide the +5v and so to avoid any power conflicts remove the middle red wire from each ESC lead and place a pieced of insulating tape over it. 

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Yes, the ESCs have documentation, so to speak.  All broken and poorly translated from Chinese.  Best I can tell, they instruct you how to calibrate. Pretty superficial.  I would be afraid to try to read anything these guys put out that would be more in depth.  How does one change the reverse parameter using the transmitter?  I "cut the red wire" for the esc leads.  Thanks again for the help.

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@Q2THECORE that's too bad about the lack of documentation but seems to be common with a lot of ESCs. I now use HobbyWing 40A ESCs on my Hex as they are easy to setup and the documentation is good.

http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=398&filter_attr=6481.6480

I purchased 6 of them from HobbyKing.com for about $12 each. They don't make a 30A so I went with the higher version of 40A.

But back to your HobbyPower ESCs, I can't seem to find much information on those either. All I can say is that the common way to enter programming mode on an ESC is similar to calibration. Typically to calibrate an ESC you have it connected to the motor and to the receiver throttle channel. You power on the transmitter and move the throttle stick to its highest position. You then connect the battery and the ESC will make the motor emit a tone. Within a few seconds of the tone you move the throttle to its lowest position. This is telling the ESC the PWM range that it should use. If you wait a bit longer before moving the throttle to its lowest position you may hear a different number of tones and waiting a bit longer another number of tones. Each one is to set a different parameter to program but without knowing what they are is going to be impossible to configure. On another note I looked at a number of ESCs programing parameters and found ones that reverse the direction of the motor but not the PWM range and thinking about this again I don't think that would be a very useful parameter to have. Low throttle should be about 1000 and high throttle about 2000 and the higher the PWM the faster the ESC should turn the motor. 

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OK.  I recalibrated the ESCs, and they responded well, individually, with apparently plenty of RPM and power to spare.  When I hook everything up again to the FC, it still does the cutting out thing.  Also, the FPV goes out when I try to accelerate, which is odd, and probably pointing back to a power issue?  Everything is run through the PMU supplied with the FC, so I'm a bit confused as to why it would have power issues.  The FPV TX is a brand new TS5823

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@Q2THECORE the PMU should just provide +5v to the FC which in turn also powers the receiver but the ESCs and TS5823 should get their power directly from the battery. Is that the case ?

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That was it!  The escs needed more power and the drain was messing with the fpv.  In an unrelated issue, I can't get the FS from blinking and it only flies in manual mode.  Could be a controller setup issue.  Now I know why ppl buy out of the box uavs.

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The main LED.  Interesting, but my voltage in the assistant software shows at 12.56.  The battery shows 16.6v with a tester.  For some reason, the FC is still not getting enough juice.  The FS issue could be low voltage protection.

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13 hours ago, Q2THECORE said:

The main LED.  Interesting, but my voltage in the assistant software shows at 12.56.  The battery shows 16.6v with a tester.  For some reason, the FC is still not getting enough juice.  The FS issue could be low voltage protection.

I see that the FC's PMU can be powered by a 2S to 6S battery and you must be using a 4S, correct ?. I also see that the PMU provides both 5v and 12v outputs. Can you make sure that the +5 v is being used to power the FC by measuring the voltage. Are you using the 12v out to power anything ?.

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The 12v from the pmu is powering the osd and gimbal. I don't really have a way to check the 5v voltage.  The connector is proprietary 

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Ok, I connected a 3s 11.1v to it and everything fell within the "Recommend Settings."  The FS is still blinking, so it looks like an issue with my futaba setup.  I may try hooking up a different tx rx system that is less complicated than the futaba.  

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So now I am getting the 2 red flashes (calibrate compass).  I can get into the calibration mode and have done the dance repeatedly. No green light horizontally or vertically. Ready to part this out!  $#@%!>:(

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44 minutes ago, Q2THECORE said:

So now I am getting the 2 red flashes (calibrate compass).  I can get into the calibration mode and have done the dance repeatedly. No green light horizontally or vertically. Ready to part this out!  $#@%!>:(

Are you checking this indoors?. If so I would try it out doors as I am wondering if the 2 flashes of the red LED really means that its not picking up enough GPS satellites.

Edited by Spitfire76

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Tried outdoors and at an open school playground.  Also made sure firmware was up to date.  Still 2 red flashes even on manual mode.  

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18 hours ago, Q2THECORE said:

Tried outdoors and at an open school playground.  Also made sure firmware was up to date.  Still 2 red flashes even on manual mode.  

Are you able to change flight modes ?. Reason for asking is that it looks like you need to be able to do that in order to get to compass collaboration  and I believe you were having trouble to get out of manual mode earlier on.

Edited by Spitfire76

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I can switch flight modes, but still get the error flash in manual mode.  Shouldn't need gps for that mode?  

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On 6/19/2017 at 8:04 AM, Q2THECORE said:

I can switch flight modes, but still get the error flash in manual mode.  Shouldn't need gps for that mode?  

Is the GPS connected to the FS?. Using this forum to troubleshoot this is not very efficient so let me know if you want to have a Skype call.

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