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Everything posted by Spitfire76

  1. Ok...... https://www.commercialdroneprofessional.com/dji-launches-most-secure-drone-solution-to-date-for-use-in-high-security-situations/
  2. I think that I already have one although not 70mm.
  3. Also this guy is really good with FPV troubleshooting.
  4. That's too bad. I don't FPV race so can't recommend a drone although I do have a Tiny Whoop style drone to fly around the house. I mainly like to build larger autonomous drones, both multi-rotor and fixed wing. You may want to check out Oscar's site for recommendations. Also I noticed that he has these tips for troubleshooting arming issues. https://oscarliang.com/quad-arming-issue-fix/
  5. Well a couple of other things but I am running out. When you plug in the battery do you hear the same beeps as on the video ?. The beeps are generated by the motors from the ESCs. Also do you have a second battery to try in case the one you have is bad ?.
  6. and lastly you might want to have a look at this second video on the Betaflight setup for the Q215 if you haven't already.
  7. It looks like the only other leads that you had to solder were for the receiver which according to the video should be in this order.
  8. You make a good point about not buying the FPV goggles if the drone is not working. I just wanted to check if at least something was working. Since this is came as a kit can you double check the wiring and solder joints. Red wire from battery should go to the + and black to - but of course you would be in real trouble of that was not the case. The small capacitor has a grey line to indicate the negative -
  9. To add to my previous post although you are getting a bad logging message is the rangefinder actually operating ?. One way to test it without flying is to simply to go to Initial Setup in Mission Planner and under Optional Hardware select rangefinder it should show distance.
  10. I would imagine that's normal behavior as you have configured a rangefinder but have disconnected the hardware. LIDAR is referring to the rangefinder what ever type you have configured. This we need to troubleshoot further. Is it constantly reporting bad logging ?
  11. ok, good at least we can eliminate that from having done any damage. The video that you posted earlier looks like its just flashing F then a 4 which I would imagine is the band and channel its using for the 5.8 Ghz video channel. In fact have you been able to test the camera by using FPV googles or a monitor ?. Also in that video is that 7 pin connector securely plugged in as it looks kind of wonky ?
  12. Hello @Jure Novak and welcome to this forum. My first thought is that you might have some loose connections. Check all connectors are secure and also for any bad solder joints. Is this now a solid problem or does it work sometimes and not others ?
  13. Before we understand why the video channel is changing I would first like to follow-up on that camera connection to the flight controller as it sounds like from the build video that it could have caused some damage. I managed to capture this from that build video and as you can see the marking's on the board are 5V, GND and V but the red wire is connected to the V pin and the yellow wire to the 5V and this should be reversed. Can you check if this is the case with your kit, if not its something we can eliminate.
  14. In that case it must be something in the build that's not right. I am sure you have checked the wiring but I found this video on the build and he mentions that his kit had some wiring crossed between the flight controller and the camera so maybe simply disconnect camera as you don't need it to test the motors.
  15. Sorry to ask this but is the battery charged and connected as although the flight controller will get enough power from the usb connection of the PC its not sufficient to power the motors.
  16. Have you tried the "motor test" in betaflight ?. You will need to select the "I understand the risks....." to enable it as they want to make sure you remove the props but you should be able to test each motor and you don't have to be in arm mode or even have the transmitter on. In retrospect I should have suggested that earlier.
  17. Here are a couple of screen shots from my setup. The first is one is with the switch in disarm and the second is when its armed. You are right it looks like the square to the left does not turn orange but whats important is the small orange PWM indicator moves from the gray range to the orange range.
  18. Interview with Richard Lopez, the National UAS Operation Executive with Hensel Phelps Construction Co.,
  19. I recall seeing this article about Parrot along with 5 other companies being selected by the DOD to develop a drone for the US army https://www.suasnews.com/2019/05/parrot-selected-by-u-s-dept-of-defense-to-help-develop-next-gen-drone-for-army/ and from what I understand the other 5 companies that were selected are Skydio Altavian Teal Drones Vantage Robotics Lumenier
  20. Now that you are connected with the Betaflight configurator you should be able to check that the arm switch is actually working by going to the modes menu. You should have an "ARM" mode configured and when you operate the switch on your transmitter it should move from the gray area to the orange. Its that the case ?.
  21. Ok, what is the role of the Raspberry Pi ?. If you just need to turn on a LED you could simply use the aux outputs of the the HKPilot32. These can be controlled by either a mission script or a switch on the transmitter. http://ardupilot.org/copter/docs/common-relay.html
  22. Well it does look like 4s is the low end for those motors. The first table here is for the 370kv motor and shows the recommended battery/prop combination. It also shows the thrust each motor generates so we should be able to work out if that's sufficient. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Clearance-sale-Quanum-4108-MT-Series-FPV-brushless-motor-MT4108-370KV-well-dynamic-balanced-No-Warranties/32822472002.html So what size props are you using and also what is the total takeoff wait of the UAV ? To just counter gravity the motor/prop thrust needs to be the same as the weight of the UAV and of course to fly it needs to be much more. My understanding is that the rule of thumb is for the motor/prop thrust to be up to twice the take of weight.
  23. I first saw it from Chuck's recent post to this thread.
  24. I was suggesting that but after further investigation it does seem that the RPi is restricted on the number of available serial ports. Of course you need one to connect from the Pi to the Pixhawk and its not clear to me if the USB one is accessible, I believe it depends on if it has onboard bluetooth. If range is not an issue would WiFi to the RPi be acceptable ?. Do you need the Pi to be on the drone or can it be on the ground and communicate with the Pixhawk via the serial wireless link ? Maybe you could share more details of your intended application and I will try to help.
  25. MavProxy is effectively a control station that has a connection to a Pixhawk telemetry port and uses the MavLink protocol for control and telemetry the same as other control stations like mission planner. If I understand correctly it sounds like you want to be able to send messages from your PC to the companion computer, a Raspeberry PI, via the Pixhawk, correct ?. If you have a companion computer usually you want it to perform the control and get back telemetry but it will have its own link to a ground control station using wifi or 4G as it would also handle video. I think I understand what you are trying to do and that is to leverage the existing serial radio link that the Pixhawk has to also use to send messages to the Pi. If that's the case what you really need is to use that radio on the pi and not the Pixhawk. Let me know if this what you need and we can discuss further.