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23 hours ago, RemotelyPossible said:

Nice, i would like to have seen some more diversity in the type of shot and angle to make it more interesting, but great job!

Thanks. I found this very tricky as the action is a lot faster so I am flying faster and the added risk of hitting trees. This limited my shots to some extent. Also flying single operator meant the camera work wasn't the best. Also, I think the clip goes for too long but I wanted to try a longer edit. If it had of been shorter, you probably wouldn't have noticed the lack of some angle.

My mate, who owns the farm is pretty happy with the video so that's what matters.

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Indeed, It is always important to remember who matters the most, the client! As to flying alone and operating a camera simultaneously indeed some skill that requires lots of practice, over all i think you've done a fine job keeping pace with them as the action is indeed very fast. Keep practicing and let us see how you evolve! Another piece to think of in editing is trying not to have the same shot type twice in a row (close up, medium, long) if you work to have different shots one after another it provides an intriguing flow. Great work keep it up!

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8 hours ago, Rylan Loemker said:

Thanks @RemotelyPossible. Any thoughts on the editing i.e. colour grading and the like. I did notice on some devices the playback was really green. I then just ran with it because it is after all Greenvalleys.

The editing overall was good, your cutting on  the action  which makes for pleasing transitions, and doing a good job of not having the exact same shot type one after another. In terms of the overall color and lighting this can be tough as it looks like it was a very sunny day, but due to shade some parts are darker and some parts are very light and a little over saturated (you lose some of the color depth with this),  you could apply some post production color and saturation correction to even it out, but my suggestion is actually going to be for during the shoot (I always prefer to maximize what i can during production as it saves tons of time in post).

Photography and videography in a very boiled down essence are about light, in a studio this is much easier to control with diffuse lighting and flashes, however when your out on a shoot like yours you are really at the mercy of the sun and it's bounce lighting. As you said a dual operator set up would let one person focus on changing settings while you fly but even that isn't really a great practice (changing settings mid shot gives a weird look). 

You might want to pick up a set of ND filters  (neutral density filters, think of them like sunglasses for the camera) these filter out how much light is entering the camera, darkening your exposure. This will let you slow down the shutter speed (leaving the shutter open longer allows more of the depths of colors to be captured). It should also minimize the differences between the very sunny and the more shady shots. I am out in Sedona Arizona doing some shooting and it is so bright if I wasn't using a filter I would have to set the shutter speed so fast almost all of my shots would be over saturated with light and losing a lot of color information. I'll try and do some comparison shots to show you what I mean.

Edited by RemotelyPossible
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Okay so here are a couple of photos to show the effect, not actually the greatest photo for them but it will do for now.

The first photo (133) is just the camera lens no filter, as you can see it has an alright depth of color but its not great there is also a large amount of bloom from the sun in the top of the photo. This required a very fast shutter speed of 1/3200s. This is not a lot of time to let light hit the sensor.

The Second photo (134) is the polarizer filter attached, this cuts down on the reflections of light by allowing only one set of orthogonal light waves into the camera, it has better or more true to hue color, though it has a larger bloom effect from the sun up top, this also cuts some of the light entering the camera so i was able to slow the shutter to 1/1600.

The third picture (135) is an ND4 (2 f stop) this essentially cuts 3/4 of the light (lets 1/4 in) which allowed me to slow the shutter down even more to around 1/400 s allowing more time for exposure to snag some color, again this would have been much more evident if i wasnt so lazy and took some shots from the air for comparison, but i wanted to have the same exact image. Notice the minimization on the bloom from the sun, as well as the nice blue of the sky.

The Last Picture is an ND8 (3 f Stop) this cuts the light down to only 1/8 getting through (blocks 7/8 of the light) this allowed me to have a shutter speed of 1/160 allowing for much better depth and natural representation of the real colors( this is what i chose for the rest of my shoot) This ended up with the best representation of the actual color, and the best flattening of the image between the ground and the sky.

 

Hope this was useful!

Point of clarification, due to the order i uploaded them the first picture is the bottom one it moves up from there, so the top picture is the ND8 filter. (also polarizers have better efficiency when the sun is from the left or right and not directly behind or dead ahead like i have here)

DJI_0136.JPG

DJI_0135.JPG

DJI_0134.JPG

DJI_0133.JPG

Edited by RemotelyPossible

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Thanks @RemotelyPossible. I do use filters and have the Inspire set of the PolarPro (8,16,32, PL, 8PL abd 16PL). On a good day I can actually get shutter speed down to 1/50 to 1/25 (and use a fps rate of 25 to match) using 8PL or 16PL). Makes for really nice footage. Thanks for the response and the work you have put into this.

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